Bonsai is the art of growing trees and plants and of keeping them diminutive by growing them in a pot. it also includes the use of skilled pruning. The plants and trees are formed to create an aesthetic shape and the illusion of age, although many trees are quite old and simply show their age in miniature form.
In China, the art of penjing is very similar and is the precursor of the Japanese art of bonsai. The word is pronounced "Bon zai" - and each syllable has equal emphasis.
Water about once a day, never allow the soil to dry out, but be careful not to overwater. The soil should be kept just moist at all times.You will need to water more frequently in hot weather and in the growing season and less in winter.
The larger leafed varieties should have their leaves sprayed occasionally. But never do this in the heat of the day or while the tree is receiving direct sunlight. Sun on water droplets has the same effect as a magnifying glass—the leaves will be burnt or scorched.
Use different grades of coarse mixed soil which are suitable for your particular tree, some water retentive and some open and porous. If you use too fine a soil it will clog down when watered and not enough air will be able to circulate around the roots.
Put the coarsest soil in the bottom of the pot, above the crocks, and the finest soil on top and around the roots.
Bonsai (盆栽, "tray gardening" in Japanese), like pot plants, need regular feeding with a liquid fertilizer during the growing season. This is because their roots are restricted as to the area they can stretch out to in search of food.Use different grades of coarse mixed soil which are suitable for your particular tree, some water retentive and some open and porous. If you use too fine a soil it will clog down when watered and not enough air will be able to circulate around the roots.
Put the coarsest soil in the bottom of the pot, above the crocks, and the finest soil on top and around the roots.
Prunethem to give them shape and a bushy appearance. This should generally be done in spring. Never prune roots and the top growth at the same time, as this will give the plant too much of a shock.
Cut off the top tips to get a bushy look. And prune carefully to give the tree the desired shape. Think about the final shape you want the tree to have, and consider the angle from which it will be seen. (If you buy a ready-grown plant you will of course only have to trim it, its basic shape will have been established long before you bought it).
Wire is twisted around the trunk or branches to encourage growth in a particular direction, or to develop a gnarled-looking twist. Do not wire immediately following repotting as you must allow time for the plant to settle. Use copper wire - except for Cherry trees or young delicate shoots where pipe cleaners should be used. Do not wire unnecessarily and be careful not to damage the branch. Remove the wire as soon as the branch is set in its new position.
When wiring the trunk of the tree the end of the wire must be anchored so that it is taut enough to pull the trunk in the required direction. You can do this by inserting the wire through the drainage hole while you are repotting, and then leaving it on the surface of the soil until you are ready to wire the trunk.
Root pruning is done when repotting and does not, in itself, dwarf a tree - rather it promotes healthy growth. The fine roots feed the tree and the larger ones hold it firmly in the ground. Carefully knock off most of the earth, then trim the large coarse roots as, clearly, they are not really necessary. Also remove any broken and dead roots. There should be a space of 1-1 inch between the root ball and the side of the container.
Pruning roots in this way also helps to ensure that they get enough air. Too many roots tangled together (or heavy soil) prevent this. Remember to use a sharp tool when pruning the roots to avoid damaging or bruising them.
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